Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve

Screen Shot 2016-04-21 at 20.48.34Distillery: Old Rip Van Winkle
Age: 20 years old
ABV: 45.2%
Cask: Charred New American Oak
More Info: WhiskyBase

Ah, Pappy. You can’t talk about rare Bourbons without Old Rip Van Winkle’s Pappy coming up in the conversation. This stuff is legendary.

Produced by Sazerac at the Buffalo Trace distillery in very limited quantities, this whiskey is unusual in its use of wheat instead of rye in the mashbill (in addition to corn and malted barley).

Typically auction fodder, I was very surprised to see it for sale by the glass in one of my favourite Manchester bars. Given it’s as rare as hen’s teeth, I knew it’d be daft to pass it up.

Nose: Fragrant sandalwood, cola cubes, butterscotch, hay, rolling tobacco, cider apples, gumballs, milk chocolate and dairy ice cream.

Palate: Spicy, mouthcoating and rich. Cherry menthol, lime and grapefruit. Capsicum, black pepper, cinnamon and clove. Spices die down to reveal soft raspberry ripple ice cream and sweet tobacco.

Finish: Black pepper and oak. Long and creamy. Very smooth.

Very creamy, fruity, and oaky with tons of barrel spices. Easy sipping, elegant and complex. Just what I was hoping for – this is just so smooth, balanced, and utterly delicious. Try it if you get a chance, it’ll put a smile on your face.

Lagavulin 8 Year Old

Screen Shot 2016-04-15 at 20.09.28Distillery: Lagavulin
Bottled: 2016
Age: 8 years old
ABV: 54.4%
Cask: Refill American Oak
More Info: WhiskyBase

Nose: Medicinal and carbolic! Airfix glue, coal-tar soap, salt-dough, dried ham and a touch of moules marinière. Citrus peels and some sooty, ashy smoke.

Palate: Sweet lemon sherbet, barley sugar, and drying lapsang souchong smoke. Mulled wine spices: Clove, black pepper, cardamom. A little funky damp driftwood note and then bitter cocoa powder.

Finish: Long, chalky, and dry with more pepper, smoke, and creamy oak peeking through.

Very moreish. It has a young, fresh, zesty character – lighter than the 12 and less complex but more integrated and smooth. The smoke itself is very refined with trademark notes of tea and soot but the rest of the palate has that young and green character.

I’m a fan of this, and I think Diageo did well releasing it at 48%ABV. It’s a more affordable non-sherried Laga and if you like young Islay notes and savoury drying smoke then this will definitely do it for you.

Port Charlotte 2007 CC:01

Screen Shot 2016-04-12 at 11.16.22Distillery: Bruichladdich
Bottled: 2016
Age: 8 years old
ABV: 57.8%
Cask: European Oak (Cognac Cask)
More Info: WhiskyBase

Hello, hello! A cask-strength Port Charlotte release…

The PC series proved immensely popular in travel retail and now we’re onto vintages: the 2007 Cognac Cask. Always complex, never boring, and a very tempting reason to book a holiday this year.

Nose: Loving the dry, earthy Port Charlotte smoke here! Drifting through the peat we get aromas of mango pulp, dried apricot, peach, kiwi, mandarin and lime skin. Great savoury notes too – soft rubber soles, smoked cheese, roast potatoes, rosemary, and rock salt. I’ve been nosing for ten minutes and it’s still fascinating.

Palate: Campfire smoke, candied orange, more mango pulp, plums, raspberry then a whoosh of sea salt and the drying, mineral-rich peat steps in with juicy sweet malt, vanilla, and milky coffee. Wowser.

Finish: Ashy and savoury with salted cashews.

Excellent stuff, this. Reminds me of a PC valinch bottling I picked up on Islay – full of distillery character with fruit, smoke and malt beautifully interwoven and a complete bargain for the RRP.

I think Adam Hannett’s found a sweet spot here agewise for cask-strength Port Charlotte.

Can’t wait to see what comes next…

The Port Charlotte 2007 CC:01 is available from World Duty Free for £67.99.

Bruichladdich “The Laddie Eight”

Screen Shot 2016-04-12 at 11.16.06Distillery: Bruichladdich
Bottled: 2016
Age: 8 years old
ABV: 50%
Cask: European and American Oak
More Info: WhiskyBase

The Laddie Ten was one of the first truly exceptional single malts I ever tried, way back in Edinburgh in 2012. A whisky tasting was thrown in as a fun round-off to a technical conference and one of the Bruichladdich reps talked us through three expressions from the pre-Remy core lineup.

With the 10-year-old being pulled back to a distillery-only release recently it’s great to see another Laddie making its way onto the core lineup. With global demand still incredibly high for Scotch, an eight-year-old malt is a more sustainable age to meet the demand without resorting to multi-vintage bottlings.

Bruichladdich’s attitude to NAS bottlings is exemplary, though. They’ve always been open about the age of the whisky in the bottle (even if it’s not on the bottle, they make it known in the online literature) and their solidarity with Compass Box regarding the SWA ruling on showing “too much information” is heartwarming to see.

Nose: Fresh barley grass! Very sweet and lively. Delicate straw, candy-floss, lemon drizzle cake, and butterscotch. A whiff of eucalyptus, pear skin and granny smith, then faint salty shells and sand.

Palate: Luscious. That signature slow-distilled Laddie spirit, thick and buttery on the tongue. The flavour’s led by more fresh barley, sweet toffee, vanilla, and a touch of caramel biscuit then big waves of warming chai tea spices roll in – ginger, clove, black pepper, cinnamon. As it breathes in the glass, wafts of raspberry and peach come through

Finish: Warming and spicy with buttery oak and a salty, foamy edge.

Ahhh – fruity, malty, salty and so buttery on the tongue. Good stuff, Mr Hannett. I shall be keeping an eye out for this next time I’m at the airport!

The Bruichladdich Eight is available now from World Duty Free for £44.99.

A Pair of Indy Strathmills

Strathmill isn’t a name you see on the single malt market very often.

Another Diageo-owned blending malt, you’ll find this one in the popular J&B blended Scotch. Known for a delicate flavoured distillate, I’m hoping these two independent bottlings will showcase the distillery character without too much cask influence.

Cadenhead Strathmill 1995

Screen Shot 2016-04-03 at 14.28.46Distillery: Strathmill
Bottled: 2014, Distilled: 1995
Age: 18 years old
ABV: 54.4%
Cask: Bourbon Hogshead
More Info: WhiskyBase

Nose: Fiery pepper but fruity – peach fizz sweets, unpasteurised yoghurt, strawberry ice cream, kaffir lime leaves, sage, cinnamon and caramel. A whiff of aromatic permanent marker pen.

Palate: Simple sweet malt toffee, barley malt, vanilla. Water reveals a touch of banana. Smooth to start, becoming spicy and numbing with Szechuan pepper, cinnammon, and cloves.

Finish: Tingly with allspice, ginger root and cardamom.

This is a pretty solid old-school style Speyside hoggy malt.

Sweet shop notes with esters and fruit. It’s quite unbalanced and fiery, but a great nose on it. I’d say the cask was a tad too active here with the palate starting off well and gradually cranking up the spices further than I’d like on an unpeated malt.

It’s a good whisky overall, but I wouldn’t buy it.

WhiskyBroker Strathmill 1990

Screen Shot 2016-04-03 at 14.27.59Distillery: Strathmill
Bottled: 2012, Distilled: 1990
Age: 22 years old
ABV: 51.9%
Cask: Refill Bourbon Hogshead
More Info: WhiskyBase

This is four years older than the Cadenhead’s bottling, but quite a bit paler. I’m hoping the refill cask here has been kinder to the spirit.

Nose: Green fruit – apples, kiwis, limes. Spicy crème brûlée, salted fudge, lavender honey, cloudy cider, and barley grass. Some green chillies too.

Palate: Buttery fudge, cinder toffee, cheap cola, rum-raisin ice cream, sweet malt, and another rising, numbing pepper note that comes to dominate the palate.

Finish: The fire calms down to leave Bourbon barrel spices – cinnamon, sweetened hazelnuts, creamy oak.

A lot in common with the Cadenhead – fruity Speyside character coming through, but different notes and more depth of flavour and complexity. It still has that rising spice, but it’s not as harsh as the 18 and dies down to reveal more flavours on the finish.

Thanks to Andy for this sample!

A Case of Kiwi Craft Beers

Yeastie_Boys

 

“Your mom busted in and said, “What’s that noise?” Aw, mom you’re just jealous: it’s the Yeastie Boys!”

 

Ok, so a slight departure from whisky today – I have here a fine selection of beers from the Yeastie Boys, a brewery outfit from New Zealand who’ve started selling beers here in the UK with the help of our beloved renegade Scottish beermasters, Brewdog.

As you probably know, beer is just half-finished whisky so it mostly qualifies as a relevant post, right? Yeah, of course it does*.

Founded in 2008 by Stu McKinlay and Sam Possenniskie, and using a fierce blend of savvy modern branding, a love of experimentation, and the ability to make high quality, interesting beers – these chaps are really doing the Southern Hemisphere proud on the global craft beer stage.

So let’s get it in the glass, eh?

* To make sure I’m appeasing the wrath of the whisky gods, one of these beers is made with heavily peated malt. Oooh! Aaaah!

IMG_20160330_203819369Stairdancer (Pale Ale 4.4%)

Colour: Cloudy yellow.

Nose: Fruity! Lemons, Golden Delicious apples, Grapefruit. Quite doughy, and slightly herbal.

Palate: Malty, soft, frothy and tart developing to salty hops. Slightly chalky.

Finish: Lipsmackingly salty.

Pretty straightforward overall. It’s smooth and clean – as you’d expect from a pale ale.

I think I’d have this one with food; it’s more interesting than your average lager but it’s not complex enough to be spoiled by an unclean palate.

IMG_20160329_205748037Digital (IPA 5.7%)

Colour: Golden yellow, slightly cloudy.

Nose: Floral blossom. Hay, wax and chamomile with a little waft of tropical mango and wet honeydew melon slices.

Palate: Light and crisp with more delicate floral notes. Akin to a dry cider without the sweetness. Fruit skins and tangy salty malt.

Finish: Salty and yeasty with a gentle bitterness coming through.

This is a really easy sipper. Made dry-hopped with Motueka, Nelson Sauvin, and Southern Cross hops, it’s a lovely light floral twist on the IPA style.

I could drink this all day long.

IMG_20160401_200000152Cloudbuster (Saison 5.8%)

Colour: Cloudy pineapple.

Nose: Coconut shavings, lemon pancakes, grapefruit, yeasty white bread.

Palate: Pear, nectar, tropical fruit, vanilla cream, more grapefruit and floral hops.

Finish: Malty and wheaty with dry hops.

This is one for the Weißbier lovers.

Yeasty, wheaty and tons of bright fruit and floral notes. Would pair well with smoked meats and charcuterie.

 

IMG_20160331_190842453

Gunnamatta (Earl Grey IPA 6.5%)

Colour: Cloudy amber.

Nose: Salty, grassy, herbal, and slightly medicinal. Jasmine blossom and honey.

Palate: Bitter orange peel, tangerines, more jasmine. Peaches and soft fruit, becoming fresh, hoppy and grassy.

Finish: Salty, nutty, tangy, with dry tea leaves.

Mmm, another great twist on the IPA style.

This is a personal favourite of mine as an Earl Grey tea drinker – the dry, floral notes really work with the hops. It’s more robust and challenging than the Digital IPA but very refreshing and accessible all the same. Yum.

IMG_20160402_165751793

Pot Kettle Black (Porter 6.0%)

Colour: Jet black, beige froth.

Nose: Brazil nuts, dark chocolate, iron, and salty Marmite.

Palate: Dark malt, Bourbon biscuits, bitter treacle, dark liquorice, granary bread.

Finish: Tangy, with more iron and liquorice root. Ever so slightly smoky right at the end.

This is a lovely malty, chocolatey porter.

Lots of depth to those rich, dark, heavy flavours – this is a quiet fireside sipper on a wet, cold night.

 

IMG_20160402_180753538xeRRex (Heavily Peated Imperial 10%)

Wow, here’s the pièce de résistance. An imperial strength ale with heavily peated malt. This really is not something you see every day!

Colour: Cloudy chestnut, with quite a bit of sediment. Is that peat floating in it??

Nose: Wow, medicinal peat smoke! Germaline and soft rubber. Bacon rind masks a very soft fruity note of stewed apple.

Palate: Surprisingly very fruity, malty and dry, like a Belgian beer. Peaches, pineapples and cream and then the peat rushes in and pow! It’s Bonfire night and wood smoke, dry leaves, and salty smoked ham are all over your tongue.

Finish: That smoky smell that clings to your clothes in November. Keeps going and going, long after the last sip.

Wow, what a singularly unusual beer. You’d have to travel far to find many others like this. It reminds me of the wash we tasted on the Lagavulin tour (though not as yeasty).

Definitely challenging, and don’t expect to be able to taste much but smoke for a while afterwards. If Rauchbier or peated whisky do it for you then you’ll definitely appreciate this.

Glen Elgin 1995 (Cadenhead)

Screen Shot 2016-03-31 at 21.01.26Distillery: Glen Elgin
Bottled: 2015, Distilled: 1995
ABV: 55.6%
Cask: Bourbon
Bottler: WM Cadenhead
More Info: WhiskyBase

Glen Elgin isn’t a name you hear often in single malt land. It tends to all go into blended whisky. As a relative unknown, you can get these single (or in this case double) cask bottlings at great prices and the liquid is very nice indeed.

Nose: Buttery and herbal, with wood and fruit: oranges, raspberries, blackberries, and limes. Minty toothpaste, wood varnish, deodorant spray and acrylic paint.

Palate: Creamy Easter egg chocolate. Malty toffee. Mint ice cream, menthol, cherries, gooseberries and cinnamon.

Finish: Long and tangy with citrus leaves and bourbon spice.

This is a glorious bourbon cask treat.

I bought a bottle to split with Andy and it really hasn’t disappointed. There’s still some available on Cadenheads at the time of writing so bag a bottle if delicious bourbon cask Scotch is your thing.

Still on Cadenheads for £63.10 per bottle.

Kilchoman Sanaig

Screen Shot 2016-03-27 at 16.18.05Distillery: Kilchoman
Bottled: 2016
Age: 4/5 years
ABV: 46%
Cask: 50% Bourbon & 50% Sherry
More Info: WhiskyBase

Here’s a new release from the Islay Farm Distillery.

Kilchoman’s Sanaig is the latest addition to the core line-up and combines Bourbon and Sherry cask influences upon the distillery’s peaty spirit.

As with all Kilchoman’s whiskies, this is very young but full of Islay character.

Nose: Chocolate raisins, prunes, fried pineapple, salty crisps, earthy peat smoke, bandages, milky coffee, wet towel funk.

Palate: Soft plum flesh, pears, and a floral perfume. Toffee and vanilla leading to spicy white pepper and cinnamon with a touch of creamy oak. The signature coastal peat tang comes through too.

Finish: Chewy peat and liquorice strips with more sweet toffee and sea salt emerging.

A sweet peat treat. The sherry influence here brings soft fruit notes, much sweeter than the relatively dry and meaty Loch Gorm 100% sherry release.

Some people aren’t a fan of young peaty whisky but I think Kilchoman are doing extraordinarily well with the stock they have (founded in 2005, it’ll be a while before we see older releases). Mind you, young peaty malts aren’t to everyone’s taste I suppose (though I bloody love them!).

At around £50 per bottle, it’s not cheap. But given this is uncoloured and non chill filtered Islay from a tiny farm that malts and peats their own barley on site, I’d be happy to part with my cash to support their endeavours.

The Kilchoman Sanaig is on Master of Malt for £49.84.

Glenmorangie Milsean

Screen Shot 2016-03-23 at 20.39.46Distillery: Glenmorangie
Cask: 
Ex-Bourbon + retoasted wine casks
Bottles: 30,000
ABV: 
46%
More Info:
WhiskyBase

Glenmorangie recently released this limited edition “Milsean” bottling amid a mild furore of whether or not their re-toasted wine casks constituted as “added flavouring” (banned by the SWA as it contravenes the definition of a Scotch).

Allegedly the wood was still wet with wine and the toasting caramelised the remnants, hence the sweet shop profile and old-fashioned ice cream parlour decor of the bottle and box. Given that the industry allows caramel colouring, I think it’s more than a little hypocritical to lay these accusations at Bill Lumsden’s feet!

Regardless, they didn’t uphold their misgivings and it got the green light to be released. It’s not age statemented, but it is non chill filtered and bottled at 46% (without E150 colouring too).

Nose: Takes a while to open up but it evolves well in the glass. Very clean. As predicted, lots of fruity candy notes: Orange pith, dusty sherbet, hard candy, pear skin, lemon drops, wine gums, apple peel, peach gums. Suddenly there’s coconut ice cream! Very nice.

Palate: Vanilla bean, chilled bananas, and malt sugar with a prominent oakiness developing. Some barrel spice: white pepper and liquorice. Watered down white wine (like ice cubes have melted in it, but in a nice way).

Finish: That oaky wood note really lasts and lasts with double cream and tingly pepper.

I like the nose a lot! The palate is a little unbalanced but I like that; Glenmorangie is usually very mellow and predictable so a few rough edges gives it an appeal that I enjoy. It’s a bit too woody, if I’m honest, but it’s definitely drinkable.

However, at £90 a bottle I think the marketing has overtaken the liquid. You can get really, really good Highland malts (like Pulteney 21) for less.

Laphroaig Brodir

Screen Shot 2016-03-04 at 20.37.09Distillery: Laphroaig
Age:
NAS
Bottled: 2015
Cask: Bourbon barrels, finished in Ruby port
ABV: 
48%
More Info:
WhiskyBase

Peaty Islay whisky, finished in port casks?? Yeah, go on, why not.

Another travel retail release from Laphroaig, Brodir’s been around a couple of years as you may have noticed if you’ve been through duty free lately. Bottled at 48%, without chill filtering – let’s see how it fares in the glass.

Nose: Coal dust, charred sausages, salty pretzels, wet oil paints. With time, dark cherries and plums emerge through the thick, salty aroma of wood smoke.

Palate: Coal tar soap, orange marmalade, with a kick of chilli calming to reveal chamomile flowers, loose leaf tea, liquorice all-sorts, bitter grapefruit, vanilla pods, and a twist of blackcurrant.

Finish: Soap and smoke, black pepper, liquorice and lingering dry ashes.

Not a bad dram at all, this.

Reminds me very much of the Amontillado-finished Cairdeas from 2014. All the coal-tar and acrid peat you expect from Laphroaig but with an interesting dark fruit influence from the port casks.

Available at Master of Malt for £89.95.